Coffee Maker Making Noise

A coffee maker making noise is a frustrating interruption to your morning routine, but most causes are diagnosable at home. Some fixes require nothing more than a descaling solution; others involve inspecting internal components. This guide ranks the four most common causes from most to least likely so you can work through them efficiently.

4 Common Causes for Coffee Maker Noise

1Mineral Scale Buildup

Hard water leaves calcium and magnesium deposits inside your coffee maker’s water lines, boiler, and thermoblock over time. As these deposits accumulate, the internal passages narrow and the machine is forced to push water through under greater resistance — producing the loud gurgling, popping, or high-pitched whining sounds many users notice. This is the single most common reason a coffee maker starts making noise and is almost always the right place to start.

Symptoms

• Loud gurgling, popping, or crackling sounds during the brew cycle that were not present when the machine was new
• Slower-than-normal brew times combined with increased noise

Care Plan

1. Empty and rinse the water reservoir completely.
2. Fill the reservoir with a commercial descaling solution (such as Durgol or Dezcal, $5–$20) mixed with water according to the product label, or use a 1:1 mix of white vinegar and water as an alternative.
3. Start a normal brew cycle — but do not let it run to completion. Allow roughly half the solution to travel through the machine, then pause the cycle using the machine’s pause button or by switching it off mid-brew. This ensures the descaling solution is sitting inside the boiler or thermoblock where deposits concentrate.
4. Let the solution soak inside the lines for 20–30 minutes.
5. Resume and complete the cycle, then run two full reservoirs of clean water through the machine to flush all traces of the descaling solution before brewing coffee again. If noise persists after descaling, consider whether the machine needs a second descaling cycle or move on to Cause 2.

Common Mistakes

• Allowing the full descaling cycle to complete before soaking — this expels most of the solution before it has time to dissolve deposits in the boiler or thermoblock, significantly reducing effectiveness.
• Using only one flush cycle of clean water after descaling — residual vinegar or descaler in the lines will affect coffee flavor and may irritate the throat; always run at least two full reservoirs of plain water.

2Failing or Air-Locked Pump

The pump is responsible for moving water from the reservoir through the heating system and into the brew basket. On espresso machines and high-pressure pod machines, the pump operates under significant pressure and is vulnerable to air-locking — a condition where a trapped air pocket prevents normal water flow and produces a loud whining, buzzing, or grinding sound. On standard drip coffee makers, the same sound pattern usually indicates a pump that is worn or beginning to fail mechanically rather than an air-lock. In either case, this is the second most common source of coffee maker noise after mineral scale.

Symptoms

• A loud whining, buzzing, or grinding sound that is noticeably worse than the machine’s normal operating noise
• The machine runs through a cycle but produces little or no coffee output, or output is significantly reduced

Care Plan

1. Unplug the machine from the wall outlet before any inspection.
2. Wait 30 minutes to allow the unit to cool fully and for any residual electrical charge to dissipate before touching internal components.
3. Re-plug the machine and run one full cycle with a complete reservoir of clean water. Note: On espresso and pod machines specifically, an air-locked pump will sometimes clear itself when water pressure normalizes over a full cycle. If the noise stops after this step, the pump was temporarily air-locked. On standard drip machines, if the noise continues, the pump is likely worn and the remaining steps apply.
4. Unplug the machine again immediately before proceeding. Check your model’s manual or the manufacturer’s website to confirm your unit is designed to be user-serviceable and to identify the correct screwdriver type — many modern machines use Torx or tri-wing security screws rather than Phillips, and some sealed units cannot be opened without causing permanent damage. If your unit is serviceable, place it on a dry, stable, non-conductive surface (such as a wooden table or rubber mat) and remove the base panel to visually inspect the pump for cracks, corrosion, or signs of overheating.
5. If the pump shows visible damage or the noise persists after testing, replace the pump with a compatible part ($15–$60 depending on machine type; prices vary by region and supplier — get multiple quotes before purchasing). If you are not comfortable working near internal wiring, have a licensed appliance repair technician perform the replacement ($50–$120 in labor).

Common Mistakes

• Running the machine with the reservoir empty, which can quickly damage or burn out the pump motor — always confirm there is water in the reservoir before running any test cycle.
• Proceeding to disassemble the base panel without explicitly re-confirming the machine is unplugged — Step 3 requires plugging the unit back in to test; always unplug again before opening the machine.

3Loose Components or Housing

Coffee makers vibrate during normal operation, and over time the vibration can loosen removable parts — such as the drip tray, carafe lid, water reservoir, or filter basket — as well as internal brackets and rubber feet. When any of these components is even slightly out of position, it can rattle or buzz against the housing and produce a surprisingly loud noise that is easy to mistake for a mechanical failure. This is one of the quickest problems to diagnose and costs nothing to fix in most cases.

Symptoms

• Clicking, rattling, or buzzing that changes or stops when you press lightly on different parts of the machine’s exterior
• Noise that begins suddenly without any other change in brewing performance

Care Plan

1. With the machine unplugged, remove all detachable components: the carafe, carafe lid, drip tray, water reservoir, and filter basket.
2. Check each component individually for cracks, warping, or missing tabs that would prevent a secure fit. Replace any damaged parts ($0–$10 for standard accessories).
3. Place the machine on a flat, level countertop and check whether all four rubber feet are intact and making firm contact with the surface. Replace missing or worn rubber feet with adhesive anti-vibration pads ($3–$8 at most hardware stores).
4. Reinstall each removable component one at a time, plugging the machine in and running a short brew cycle after each addition to identify which component is the source of the noise.
5. If the noise persists after all external components have been checked and secured, the vibration may originate from an internal bracket. Consult your machine’s manual for serviceability guidance before opening the housing, or contact the manufacturer’s support line for model-specific advice.

Common Mistakes

• Checking all components simultaneously rather than one at a time — this makes it impossible to isolate which specific part is causing the noise.
• Overlooking the carafe lid as a noise source — a lid that is even slightly cracked or that no longer seats firmly is one of the most common rattling culprits and is often replaced free of charge under a manufacturer parts warranty.

4Failing Heating Element

The heating element is responsible for bringing water to brewing temperature and, on machines with a warming plate, keeping the carafe hot after brewing. When the element begins to degrade — through mineral pitting, corrosion, or age-related wear — it can produce a low electrical hum, buzz, or intermittent popping sound during the brew cycle. This is the least common cause of coffee maker noise and the most technically involved to diagnose and repair.

Symptoms

• A low electrical hum or buzz that occurs during the brew cycle; if this sound persists while the machine is idle and not brewing, see the safety notice above
• Popping, crackling, or ticking sounds localized to the base of the machine where the heating element is housed, accompanied by corrosion, burnt marks, or cracked ceramic insulation visible on inspection

Care Plan

1. Unplug the machine from the wall outlet. Place it on a dry, stable, non-conductive surface such as a wooden table or rubber mat.
2. Wait at least 30 minutes for the unit to cool completely and for any residual electrical charge to dissipate before touching any internal components.
3. Check your model’s manual or the manufacturer’s website to confirm your unit is user-serviceable and to identify the correct disassembly tools — do not assume Phillips screws; many units use Torx, tri-wing, or proprietary fasteners.
4. Remove the base panel according to your model’s disassembly instructions. Locate the heating element and visually inspect it for corrosion, burnt marks, or cracked ceramic insulation. To test electrically, confirm the machine is unplugged, then use a multimeter in continuity mode (the beep function) or set to resistance (Ohms) and touch the probes to the element’s terminals. A stable numeric resistance reading — typically in the range of 10–50 Ohms for most consumer coffee maker elements, though this varies by wattage — generally indicates the element has continuity and is functional. A reading of OL (open circuit, meaning no electrical continuity) confirms the element has failed and needs replacement.
5. Replace the element with an OEM-compatible part (a replacement designed to match your specific machine’s original specifications) rated to the same wattage as the original ($20–$60 for standard drip machines; premium espresso machine thermoblock or boiler assemblies can cost $80–$120 or more — prices vary by region and supplier, so get multiple quotes before purchasing). If you are not confident working with internal wiring and electrical connections, hire a licensed appliance repair technician ($60–$150 in labor).

Common Mistakes

• Purchasing a replacement element before verifying the multimeter result — always confirm the element has actually failed before ordering parts, as the noise may originate from the control board or relay instead.
• Installing a replacement element rated at a different wattage than the original — a mismatched wattage element can damage the machine’s thermal regulation system or create a fire risk; always match the original specification exactly.