Why is my Dehumidifier Leaking? 5 Common Fixes 2026

A dehumidifier leaking water is one of the more common appliance problems homeowners encounter in 2026, and the good news is that most causes require nothing more than basic tools and 30 minutes of your time. A few, however, point to internal component failures that need a methodical approach. This guide ranks every cause from most to least likely so you can diagnose and fix the problem efficiently.

5 Common Causes for a Dehumidifier Leaking Water

1Full or Overflowing Collection Bucket

The most frequent reason a dehumidifier leaks is simply that the collection bucket is full and water is spilling over the edge. Most units include a float switch designed to shut the unit off before the bucket overflows, but if the bucket is not seated correctly — or if the float switch has failed — the unit keeps running and water has nowhere to go. This is always the right place to start your diagnosis because it costs nothing to check and takes under ten minutes.

Symptoms

• Water pooling directly beneath the front or base of the unit
• The unit continues running even when the bucket appears full
• No error light or “full bucket” indicator appears on the display

Care Plan

1. Unplug the dehumidifier from the wall outlet before touching anything.
2. Slide the collection bucket out completely and empty it into a sink or utility drain.
3. Inspect the bucket slot and the float switch arm (the small plastic lever or float assembly inside the unit) for any debris, sediment, or physical obstruction preventing free movement.
4. Wipe the bucket rim and the bucket slot with a dry cloth to remove any grit or mineral residue that could prevent a flush seal when the bucket is reinserted.
5. Slide the bucket firmly back into place until it clicks or seats flush — a partially inserted bucket is a common cause of repeat overflows. Plug the unit back in and monitor for 30 minutes. If it continues to overflow despite a properly seated, empty bucket, move on to Cause 3 (faulty float switch).

Common Mistakes

• Reinserting the bucket at an angle so it appears seated but leaves a gap along one side, allowing water to drip past the bucket lip.
• Assuming the bucket is the problem and not checking whether the float switch is freely triggering the shutoff — an ignored float switch failure will cause the overflow to recur immediately.

2Loose, Kinked, or Clogged Drain Hose

Many homeowners run their dehumidifier in continuous-drain mode using a hose connected to the unit’s gravity-drain port. Over time, the hose can loosen at the fitting, develop a low-point sag that traps standing water, or become partially blocked by algae and mineral scale — all of which force water back into the unit or out onto the floor at the connection point. A blocked or kinked hose is the second most common leak source after a full bucket.

Symptoms

• Water dripping or pooling near the back or side of the unit where the drain hose connects
• The hose feels soft and pliant at the fitting but water is not flowing out the far end
• Visible white mineral scale or green algae growth inside the hose when held up to light

Care Plan

1. Unplug the unit. Disconnect the drain hose from the dehumidifier’s drain port by pulling the fitting straight out (or unscrewing, depending on your model).
2. Lay the hose out flat and run water through it from a sink faucet to check flow. If water backs up or barely trickles through, the hose is blocked.
3. For mineral or algae buildup, flush the hose with a solution of one part white vinegar to one part warm water — fill the hose, cap one end, and let it soak for 30 minutes. For stubborn buildup, soak in undiluted white vinegar for 30 minutes, then flush thoroughly with clean water.
4. Inspect the drain port fitting on the unit itself. If the fitting is cracked, corroded, or no longer grips the hose securely, replace it. Generic hose barb or push-fit fittings are available at hardware stores or appliance parts suppliers for approximately $5–$25; however, model-specific OEM fittings for brands such as LG, Frigidaire, or hOmeLabs may need to be ordered online through the manufacturer or a parts retailer such as RepairClinic or PartSelect, and can cost more.
5. Reconnect the hose, ensuring it runs continuously downhill to the drain with no sags or loops. If the hose must cross uneven ground, use a hose clip or cable tie to secure the high-point run. Plug the unit in and verify water flows freely to the drain within 15 minutes of operation. If the leak persists at the fitting despite a new fitting and cleared hose, call a small appliance technician to inspect the drain port housing.

Common Mistakes

• Reconnecting a drain hose that slowly leaks at the fitting because it looks attached — always apply light hand pressure to confirm a secure, drip-free connection after reconnecting.
• Routing the hose with a low sag in the middle, which creates a water trap that eventually causes backflow into the unit.

3Faulty or Stuck Float Switch

The float switch is a small sensor inside the bucket compartment that detects when the water level is approaching the fill line and signals the unit to shut off. On mechanical designs, a hinged plastic arm rises with the water and breaks the circuit at the top of its travel. On magnetic designs, a floating magnet triggers a reed switch mounted to the unit housing. When either type fails — whether due to a stuck pivot, a broken arm, or a failed magnetic reed switch — the unit keeps running past the full line and overflows. This is the most common internal component failure behind a leaking dehumidifier.

Symptoms

• The unit runs continuously and overflows even with a correctly seated, empty bucket
• No “bucket full” indicator light activates during normal operation
• Manually lifting the float arm (on mechanical designs) does not cause the unit to shut off

Care Plan

1. Unplug the unit from the wall outlet and remove the collection bucket.
2. Locate the float switch assembly in the bucket compartment — it is typically a small hinged arm or a cylindrical float on a post. On mechanical designs, press the arm up manually to confirm it moves freely. If it sticks or catches, clean the pivot point with a dry cloth and a small amount of contact cleaner, then test movement again.
3. To test electrically, confirm the unit is still unplugged, then disconnect the float switch’s wiring harness. Set a multimeter to continuity mode and test across the switch terminals in both positions:
   • Float in the DOWN position: the switch should show continuity (circuit closed).
   • Float in the UP position: the switch should show no continuity (circuit open).
   • If the switch shows continuity in both positions, or no continuity in either position, it is faulty and must be replaced.
4. Note that some models use a magnetic reed switch rather than a mechanical contact arm. A magnetic float design has no visible pivot arm; the float is a buoyant cylinder that slides along a post. The same multimeter test applies — down should be continuity, up should be open — but there is no pivot to clean. If a magnetic float switch fails the test, the entire float-and-reed-switch assembly must be replaced; there is no mechanical adjustment possible.
5. If you have not previously worked with low-voltage appliance wiring, stop here and contact a small appliance repair technician. Although this circuit is low-voltage, misconnecting wiring can permanently damage the control board. If you are confident proceeding: order a replacement float switch that matches your dehumidifier’s make and model (search your model number on the manufacturer’s website or a parts retailer such as RepairClinic or PartSelect). Replacement float switches typically cost $10–$40 depending on the model. Reconnect the wiring harness following the original connector orientation, replace the bucket, and test the unit.

Common Mistakes

• Cleaning the pivot point on a mechanical switch but not electrically verifying that the switch actually breaks the circuit at the top of its travel — a visually free switch can still have failed contacts.
• Assuming a magnetic reed switch design is a mechanical float because both are located in the same area of the unit; if you cannot find a pivot arm, look for a cylindrical float on a smooth post, which indicates a reed switch design.

4Cracked or Damaged Reservoir Bucket

Dehumidifier collection buckets are typically made of lightweight plastic that becomes brittle over time, especially through repeated temperature cycling in a basement environment. Dropping the bucket during emptying, pressing too hard on a stubborn handle, or simply years of use can produce hairline fractures, often barely visible, that slowly weep water onto the floor. The leak appears to come from the base of the unit, making this easy to confuse with an overflow problem — but a careful inspection of the bucket itself reveals the true source.

Symptoms

• A small, consistent puddle beneath the unit even when the bucket is well below the full line
• Visible hairline fractures or stress marks along the bottom corners or lower sidewalls of the bucket
• The outer surface of the bucket feels damp or shows a water trail from a point well below the rim

Care Plan

1. Unplug the unit and remove the bucket. Dry the outside completely with a towel, then fill the bucket with 2–3 inches of tap water at a sink.
2. Set the filled bucket on a dry surface — a dry countertop or a sheet of paper — and wait 5 minutes. Any seeping crack will leave a visible wet spot beneath the bucket.
3. Dry the bucket again completely. Inspect the interior and exterior under a bright flashlight, looking for hairline cracks or “stress whitening” in the plastic, particularly around the corners and the handle mounting points.
4. Temporary Fix: If the crack is small and on a flat surface, you can apply a waterproof silicone sealant or specialized plastic epoxy (ensure it is rated for constant water immersion) to the outside of the bucket. This is only a temporary measure as the plastic will continue to flex and eventually reopen the leak.
5. Permanent Replacement: Order a replacement reservoir bucket specific to your model number. Genuine OEM buckets for 2026 models typically cost $20–$90. Avoid “universal” buckets unless explicitly listed as compatible, as the dimensions must be exact to trigger the float switch and seat properly within the housing.

Common Mistakes

• Using standard duct tape or electrical tape. These adhesives will fail almost immediately when exposed to the constant moisture and slight temperature changes of a dehumidifier bucket.
• Assuming the leak is a machine fault. Homeowners often discard perfectly good dehumidifiers because of a $30 cracked bucket, thinking the unit’s internal plumbing has failed.

5Frozen Evaporator Coils

Frozen Evaporator Coils

Dehumidifiers work by pulling air across cold evaporator coils. If the room temperature is too low (typically below 60°F) or if the air filter is extremely dirty, the condensation on the coils can turn into solid ice. When this ice eventually melts—either during a defrost cycle or when the unit is turned off—it can overwhelm the internal drip tray or bypass the collection bucket entirely, leaking out of the bottom of the unit.

Symptoms

• Visible ice or heavy frost buildup on the coils (visible behind the filter or through the grilles).
• The unit is running but not collecting much water in the bucket, despite water pooling on the floor.
• The leak is intermittent and seems to happen shortly after the unit cycles off.

Care Plan

1. Thaw the unit. Unplug the dehumidifier and allow the ice to melt naturally. Do not use a hair dryer or heat gun, as high heat can warp the plastic housing or damage the refrigerant lines.
2. Clean the air filter. A clogged filter restricts airflow, which is the leading cause of frozen coils. Wash the filter in warm soapy water, dry it completely, and reinstall it.
3. Check room temperature. If the area is below 60°F (15°C), most standard dehumidifiers will freeze. Move the unit to a warmer area or look for a model specifically rated for “low temperature” operation, which includes an active defrost sensor.
4. Inspect the internal drip tray. While the bucket is out, look upward with a flashlight. If the small plastic tray that catches water from the coils is cracked or clogged with “slime” (algae buildup), water will spill over the tray and leak out the bottom. Clean the tray with a 50/50 vinegar-water solution.
5. Refrigerant Check (Pro Only). If the filter is clean and the room is warm but the coils still freeze in a specific “ice block” pattern, the unit likely has a refrigerant leak. Since these are sealed systems, repair is rarely cost-effective compared to replacement for residential units.

Common Mistakes

• Chipping at the ice. Never use a knife or screwdriver to remove ice from the coils. The aluminum fins and copper tubing are extremely fragile; one puncture will release the refrigerant and ruin the unit.
• Running the unit in a cold basement. Operating a non-low-temp unit in a 50°F basement is a guaranteed way to cause freezing and subsequent leaking.