Dryer Not Spinning: 2026 Troubleshooting Guide

A dryer not spinning is one of the most disruptive laundry appliance problems a household can face in 2026. Some causes — like a snapped belt — are straightforward DIY fixes completed in under an hour; others, like a failed motor, require more advanced diagnosis. This guide ranks all four causes from most to least likely so you can zero in on the real problem fast.

4 Common Causes for a Dryer Not Spinning

1Broken Drive Belt

The drive belt is a long, thin rubber loop that wraps around the drum, an idler pulley (a spring-loaded wheel that keeps tension on the belt), and the motor pulley. With daily use, the belt flexes thousands of times per cycle and eventually cracks, frays, or snaps entirely. When it breaks, the motor continues to run but has no mechanical connection to the drum — leaving the drum motionless while you hear the motor humming.

Symptoms

• The dryer starts and the motor hums, but the drum does not move at all.
• Opening the door and pushing the drum by hand, it spins with almost no resistance (a healthy drum has slight resistance from the belt and rollers).

Care Plan

1. Cut power completely. Unplug the dryer and flip its dedicated 240V circuit breaker to OFF. Confirm the circuit is dead before proceeding.
2. Access the drum. Most Whirlpool-platform dryers require a putty knife slid under the top panel to release two spring clips, then removal of two screws behind the door opening to lift off the front panel. Important: Samsung and LG models often use a different disassembly sequence — many require removal of the door seal gasket and front panel from the inside, or a rear-access approach. Consult your model’s service manual before prying anything. Grouping all brands under one procedure risks damaging wire harnesses or plastic clips.
3. Locate the old belt. Look for the broken belt lying on the bottom of the cabinet floor, or still loosely wrapped around the drum. Inspect the idler pulley and motor pulley for visible wear, cracking, or seizing while you have access.
4. Document the routing before disassembly. If the belt is still partially in place, photograph the idler pulley arm position and the motor pulley before removing anything — this is your reference for reassembly. If the belt has already snapped and fallen off the pulleys, there is nothing to photograph; instead, search “[your dryer model number] drive belt routing diagram” online to find a model-specific visual reference before threading the new belt.
5. Install the replacement belt. Purchase the correct OEM (original equipment manufacturer — meaning the brand’s own factory part) belt, or a quality compatible aftermarket belt matched to your model number. Thread the belt around the drum and route it around the idler pulley and motor pulley in the orientation specified in your model’s service diagram or the replacement belt’s packaging — orientation varies by manufacturer and model, so do not assume a single universal rule applies. Once routed, check that the idler pulley arm springs back to its tensioned position on its own. If the belt cannot be routed without forcing it, or if the idler pulley arm does not return to its tensioned position under spring pressure after installation, stop and call a technician — an incorrectly tensioned belt can snap within one or two cycles. Confirm the dryer is still unplugged, then reinstall panels and test.

Common Mistakes

• Installing the belt in the wrong orientation without checking the model-specific service diagram — results in premature belt failure or immediate slipping.
• Overlooking the idler pulley arm and bracket. Even if the pulley wheel spins freely, a bent or weakened idler arm loses spring tension and will cause the new belt to fail prematurely. Inspect the arm for cracks and confirm it flexes smoothly and snaps back under spring pressure; replace the full idler assembly if the arm is compromised.

2Faulty Door Switch

Every residential dryer is wired so that the drum motor cannot run unless the door switch confirms the door is fully closed. The door switch is a small plastic switch, typically mounted just inside the door frame, that is actuated by a strike or tab on the door itself. The switch contacts wear out, the plastic actuator tab breaks, or the internal spring fails — and when it does, the dryer’s control board sees an “open door” signal regardless of how firmly you close the door, so the drum never turns.

Symptoms

• The dryer appears completely dead when the start button is pressed — no drum movement, no heat, no sound.
• The interior drum light (if equipped) does not turn on or off when the door is opened and closed, suggesting the switch has lost all function.

Care Plan

1. Cut power completely. Unplug the dryer and turn off the 240V circuit breaker before touching any internal components.
2. Locate the door switch. Open the dryer door and look for a small rectangular or oval plastic switch recessed into the door frame on the front panel, typically at the top or side of the opening. The door’s strike tab should contact this switch directly when the door closes.
3. Inspect visually. Check whether the plastic actuator tab on the switch (or on the door) is cracked or missing — this is often visible without tools and is a common failure mode on its own.
4. Test with a multimeter. Disconnect the wiring harness (the plastic connector clip that attaches the switch’s wires to the dryer’s electrical circuit) from the switch. Set your multimeter to continuity mode. Most dryer door switches are normally open — meaning a good switch reads continuity (the meter beeps) when the actuator is manually pressed, and shows open (no beep) when released. However, some older GE and Frigidaire models use a normally closed configuration, where the switch reads continuity at rest and open when pressed — typically used to control the drum light. Confirm your switch type in your model’s service manual before testing, because a homeowner with a normally-closed switch who follows the normally-open procedure will discard a perfectly functional switch.
5. Replace if faulty. Purchase the correct replacement switch by model number. Secure the new switch in its mounting location — most attach by snapping into plastic tabs; others use a single Phillips screw. Check your replacement part and the original switch to confirm the correct attachment method before applying force. Reconnect the wiring harness with a firm click. Confirm the dryer is still unplugged, reinstall any panels removed for access, then restore power and test. If the drum still does not spin, escalate to Cause 3 or call a technician.

Common Mistakes

• Testing the switch without first identifying whether it is normally open or normally closed — leads to replacing a working switch and wasting time and money.
• Forcing the switch into its mount without checking the attachment type — plastic snap tabs break easily and cannot be repaired, requiring a second replacement part.

3Worn Drum Support Rollers

Most residential dryers support the rear of the drum on two or more drum rollers (also called support rollers or drum glides) — small cylindrical wheels mounted on axle shafts inside the rear of the cabinet. Over years of use, the rubber or nylon surface of the rollers wears flat, or the axle bearings seize, causing the drum to drag, wobble, or stop spinning entirely under load. Because the rollers are a wear item, they should be replaced as a complete set — replacing only the failed one while leaving worn companions in place simply delays the next failure.

Symptoms

• A loud rumbling, squealing, or thumping noise that gradually worsened before the drum stopped spinning.
• The drum turns briefly at startup, then stalls or turns only when completely empty.

Care Plan

1. Cut power completely. Unplug the dryer and switch off the dedicated 240V circuit breaker. Confirm power is off before opening the cabinet.
2. Access and remove the drum. Disassemble the front or rear panel per your model’s service manual (refer to the model-specific notes in Cause 1, Step 2). Before lifting the drum out, note the belt routing or photograph it if intact. Dryer drums have sharp sheet-metal edges on the rear flange — wear work gloves throughout this step. The drum typically weighs 15–25 lbs and is awkward to handle solo. Have a second person support the drum weight while you unhook the belt, or prop the drum on a folded towel placed on the cabinet floor to free both hands before unhooking.
3. Locate and inspect the rollers. With the drum out, identify the roller axle shafts mounted on the rear bulkhead (and, on some models, the front bulkhead). Spin each roller by hand — a good roller spins freely and smoothly with no lateral wobble. A failed roller will feel rough, seize, wobble on its axle, or show a visibly flat-spotted surface.
4. Replace all rollers as a set. Remove each roller by sliding it off its axle shaft (most are retained by a friction clip or a trivet-style retaining ring — check your parts diagram before prying). Install the new roller set from a kit matched to your model number. OEM and quality aftermarket kits for most platforms run $15–$50; note that kits for some LG and Samsung models may reach $55–$70 — verify pricing with your supplier.
5. Lubricate the axle shafts. Apply a thin film of non-petroleum, high-temperature grease rated for 300°F or higher (such as 3-IN-ONE® High Heat or an equivalent bearing grease with a similar rating) to each axle shaft before seating the new rollers. Standard white lithium grease melts at dryer operating temperatures and is not suitable. Petroleum-based greases will liquefy and migrate into the drum interior. Reinstall the drum, re-route the belt per your service diagram, confirm the dryer is still unplugged, reinstall all panels, restore power, and test. If the drum remains stationary even after rollers are replaced, the motor itself is likely compromised—proceed to Cause 4.

Common Mistakes

• Using White Lithium Grease or WD-40. These are not rated for the extreme heat inside a dryer. WD-40 will dry out and seize, while lithium grease will liquefy and seep into your clothes. Always use a high-temperature bearing grease or, in some cases, no lubricant at all if the rollers use self-lubricating nylon bushings (check your manufacturer’s instructions).
• Replacing only the “noisy” roller. Drum rollers are wear-and-tear items that experience the same mileage. If one has failed, the others are likely close behind. Replace the full set to avoid disassembling the dryer again in three months.

4Failed Drive Motor

The drive motor is the powerhouse that turns the drum and, in many models, the blower wheel that moves air through the exhaust. Motors can fail due to electrical surges, overheating (often caused by lint buildup), or simply age. This is the least likely but most expensive cause of a dryer not spinning.

Symptoms

• You hear a loud humming or buzzing sound when you press start, but the motor doesn’t actually turn the belt.
• The motor starts briefly, then cuts out after a few minutes as it overheats.
• There is a faint “burnt electrical” smell coming from the unit.

Care Plan

1. Test the Start Switch: Before condemning the motor, ensure the “Push to Start” button on your console is functional. Use a multimeter to check for continuity; if the switch is dead, the motor never receives the signal to start.
2. Manually Assist the Drum: (Safety Warning: Do this with extreme caution). With the door switch taped shut and the dryer set to run, try to give the drum a firm push by hand. If it starts spinning only after you help it, the motor’s “start winding” has failed, and the motor must be replaced.
3. Check for Obstructions: Before buying a new motor, ensure nothing is jammed in the blower wheel (like a stray sock or a pen). A blocked blower wheel will prevent the motor from turning, mimicking a failed motor.
4. Replace the Motor: Rebuilding a motor is rarely cost-effective. Order a new OEM motor assembly ($75–$200). Note that most motors use a left-hand thread on the blower wheel side; turning it the wrong way will strip the plastic blower wheel. Reassemble and test.

Common Mistakes

• Misdiagnosing a seized blower wheel. Many homeowners replace the motor only to find a small piece of clothing was jammed in the fan. Always check the airflow path before buying a motor.
• Stripping the blower wheel threads. Remember: “Righty-Tighty” doesn’t always apply to blower wheels. Consult your manual to see if you have a reverse-threaded shaft.