A dryer not turning on is one of the most disruptive appliance failures a homeowner can face — but in many cases the fix is simpler than you expect. This 2026 guide ranks the five most common causes from most to least likely, so you can diagnose the problem efficiently before spending money on a service call.
5 Common Causes for a Dryer Not Turning On
1Tripped Breaker or Blown Fuse
Electric dryers run on a dedicated 240V double-pole circuit breaker (two breakers ganged together in your panel), while gas dryers use a single 120V breaker for the motor and controls. Vibration, a momentary power surge, or an aging breaker can cause either to trip without warning. Because one leg of a 240V breaker can trip independently, your dryer may appear completely dead even though only half the circuit lost power.
Symptoms
- The dryer shows no response at all — no display, no interior drum light, no sound when the start button is pressed
- For gas dryers: controls and drum spin but there is zero heat (one leg of the circuit may still be live)
Care Plan
- Go to your main electrical panel and locate the dryer’s dedicated breaker. For electric dryers, look for a double-pole breaker labeled “Dryer” — two switches tied together, typically rated 30 amps. For gas dryers, look for a single-pole 15- or 20-amp breaker.
- Check whether the breaker is in the tripped position. A tripped breaker typically sits in a middle position between ON and OFF — it will not be fully in either direction. Note: On some panel brands (such as Square D QO or older Zinsco panels), a tripped breaker may appear only slightly off-center or show a small red or orange indicator window rather than a visible middle position. Check your panel manufacturer’s documentation if you are unsure.
- Before touching the breaker, stand to the side of the open panel door — not directly in front of it. Avoid touching any other breakers, wiring, or metal bus bars inside the panel. Be aware that the main line-side terminals at the top of the panel remain live at all times, even if the main breaker is off. If the panel shows any signs of burning, scorching, a burning smell, corrosion, or moisture, do not touch it — call a licensed electrician immediately.
- To reset the breaker, flip it firmly all the way to OFF first, then back to ON. A half-reset (flipping directly from the middle to ON without going to OFF first) will not fully reset the mechanism.
- Plug the dryer back in, press Start, and test for normal operation. If the breaker trips again immediately or within a single cycle, stop — do not reset it again. A breaker that will not hold indicates a short circuit, a failed heating element, or a wiring fault. Contact a licensed electrician before proceeding.
Common Mistakes
- Flipping the breaker directly from the tripped middle position to ON without first flipping it fully to OFF — this leaves the breaker mechanism partially reset and it will trip again under load.
- Assuming the breaker is fine because it looks like it is in the ON position — always check for the subtle middle position or indicator window described above, especially on older or unfamiliar panel brands.
2Faulty Door Switch
The door switch is a small plastic safety interlock mounted inside the door frame. It signals the control board that the door is fully closed before allowing the dryer to start. After thousands of open-and-close cycles, the switch plunger or internal contacts wear out and the dryer simply will not receive the “door closed” signal — so it refuses to run even with the door firmly shut.
Symptoms
- The dryer has power (display is lit, timer advances) but pressing Start produces no response
- The door does not make a distinct click when closed, or the click sounds different than it used to
Care Plan
- Unplug the dryer. Confirm it is fully de-energized before proceeding.
- Access the door switch. Note: Disassembly varies significantly by brand and model — the following describes a common Whirlpool-platform approach. On Samsung, LG, and other brands, the front panel may be accessed differently (some require removing a bottom kick panel or door seal first). Consult your model’s service manual or a model-specific disassembly guide before forcing any panels. On Whirlpool-platform dryers: insert a putty knife or flat pry tool into the seam near the front corners of the top panel to depress the spring clips, then lift the panel upward and back. From there, remove the two screws on the inside of the front panel and pull it away.
- Locate the door switch — it is mounted in the door frame opening, typically held by one or two screws and connected by two or three wire terminals. Press the switch plunger by hand: you should feel and hear a distinct click. If there is no click, the switch has failed mechanically.
- Disconnect the wire terminals (photograph their positions first), remove the switch, and test it with a multimeter set to continuity mode. With the plunger unactivated (door open position), the switch should show no continuity. With the plunger pressed in (door closed position), it should show continuity. A switch that fails either test is defective.
- Install an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) replacement part — meaning the exact part made for your dryer brand — or a verified compatible aftermarket replacement. Match the part number from the old switch or from your model’s parts diagram. Reconnect the wire terminals, reassemble the panels, plug the dryer in, and test. If the dryer still will not start after replacing a confirmed-defective switch, contact a certified appliance technician, as the issue may lie with the control board or wiring harness.
Common Mistakes
- Forcing or prying the top panel without first locating and depressing the spring clips — this breaks the plastic clips and can crack the cabinet on models that use this retention method. Always use a putty knife rather than a flathead screwdriver to avoid gouging the cabinet.
- Skipping the multimeter test and replacing the switch based on appearance alone — a switch that clicks and appears intact can still have failed internal contacts that only a continuity test will reveal.
3Blown Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device mounted on the exhaust duct or heating element housing. It is designed to blow if the dryer’s internal temperature exceeds a safe threshold — most commonly caused by a clogged lint screen or blocked exhaust vent. When the fuse blows, it interrupts the internal circuit to the drive motor or heating element. The dryer may still appear to have power — the display, interior light, or timer may function normally — but the drum will not spin or the unit will not start. A blown thermal fuse does not cut all power to the dryer.
Symptoms
- The dryer appears to have power (display or timer may be active) but the drum will not spin and the unit will not start — or the drum spins but produces no heat, depending on which circuit the fuse protects in your model
- The dryer ran fine until recently and there has been no electrical event — the failure appears spontaneous
Care Plan
- Unplug the dryer and turn off the dedicated circuit breaker at the panel. Pull the dryer away from the wall to access the back panel.
- Remove the back panel screws and set the panel aside. Locate the thermal fuse — it is typically a small oblong white or black component mounted on the exhaust duct or the heating element housing, connected by two wire terminals.
- Photograph the wire terminal positions, then disconnect both terminals. Remove the fuse from its mounting bracket.
- Set a multimeter to continuity mode and probe both terminals of the fuse. A functional thermal fuse shows continuity (the multimeter beeps or reads near 0 ohms). A blown fuse shows no continuity (open circuit). There is no middle ground — the fuse either passes or it does not.
- Replace the blown fuse with an exact-match OEM or verified compatible replacement (typically $5–$20). Critically important: before reassembling, identify and correct the root cause of the overheating — clean the lint screen, inspect and clean the full exhaust duct run from the dryer to the exterior vent cap, and confirm the vent cap flapper opens freely. If you skip this step, the new fuse will blow again within a short time. Reassemble the back panel, restore power, and test. If the dryer still does not start after installing a confirmed-defective fuse, contact a certified appliance technician.
Common Mistakes
- Replacing the thermal fuse without clearing the lint or vent blockage that caused the original overheating — the replacement fuse will blow again, sometimes within the first full load. Always vacuum the internal lint trap housing and the flexible exhaust duct while the dryer is pulled out.
- Using a “jumper” wire to bypass the fuse. Never bridge the thermal fuse terminals with a wire to “test” the dryer for more than a few seconds. Operating a dryer without a functional thermal fuse is a leading cause of house fires.
4Defective Start Switch
On manual-dial dryers, the start switch is a momentary rotary or push-button switch that sends a “start” signal to the motor. Over time, the internal spring can snap or the copper contacts can burn out due to electrical arcing. If the switch is defective, you may feel it “stick” or notice it doesn’t provide the usual tactile click when pressed.
Symptoms
- You hear a faint “click” from the timer, but the motor does not engage when the button is pushed.
- The start button feels loose, has no tension, or stays depressed after you let go.
Care Plan
- Unplug the dryer. Remove the screws securing the top control console (usually located on the back or under plastic end caps).
- Tilt the console forward to access the back of the switches. Locate the start switch directly behind the knob or button.
- Pull the wires off the switch terminals (photograph them first). Set your multimeter to continuity mode.
- Place the probes on the switch terminals. A good switch will show no continuity at rest but will beep/show continuity only while the button is being held down. If it shows continuity at all times or never shows it when pressed, the switch is dead.
- Swap it for an OEM replacement ($15–$50). Reassemble and test.
Common Mistakes
- Confusing the start switch with the timer. The timer is the large box with many wires; the start switch is the smaller component next to it. Always test the simpler component first.
5Failed Drive Motor (or Broken Drive Belt)
The drive motor is the powerhouse that turns the drum and the blower fan. If the motor windings have burned out or the internal centrifugal switch has failed, the motor will not turn. However, a broken drive belt can mimic a dead motor; many modern dryers have a “belt switch” that prevents the motor from even humming if it detects the belt has snapped.
Symptoms
- You hear a loud humming or buzzing sound when you press start, but the drum doesn’t move.
- The dryer is completely silent, but the belt is visibly snapped (check by trying to spin the drum by hand; if it spins with zero resistance, the belt is broken).
Care Plan
- Unplug the dryer and remove the front or rear panel (refer to Cause 2 for access tips).
- Inspect the drive belt. If it is broken, replace it ($10–$30). This is a 1-hour DIY job and is far more common than a motor failure.
- If the belt is intact, try to turn the motor shaft by hand. If it is seized or very difficult to turn, the motor is dead.
- If the motor turns freely but won’t start, a professional should test the motor’s “start capacitor” or internal windings. Replacing a motor ($75–$200) is a high-difficulty repair.
Common Mistakes
- Condemning the motor when a stray sock is jammed in the blower wheel. Before buying a motor, check the blower housing (where the lint filter leads). A small object jammed in the fan can “lock” the motor and make it hum.
