Dryer Not Working: Common Causes & DIY Fixes 2026

A dryer not working is one of the more frustrating household breakdowns — but in most cases in 2026, the fix is simpler than you’d expect. While some repairs are straightforward DIY tasks, others require careful component testing. This guide ranks the four most common causes from most to least likely so you can diagnose the problem efficiently and avoid unnecessary parts purchases.

4 Common Causes for a Dryer Not Working

1Clogged Dryer Vent

A clogged vent is the single most common reason a dryer underperforms or shuts off mid-cycle. When lint accumulates in the duct run between the dryer and the exterior wall cap, airflow is restricted, heat builds up inside the drum, and the dryer’s high-limit thermostat or thermal fuse trips to prevent a fire. In severe cases, the unit will stop heating entirely or refuse to run at all. This is also the leading cause of residential dryer fires in the US, making it the most important item to rule out first.

Symptoms

• Clothes are damp or still warm-wet after a full cycle, even though the drum spins normally
• The dryer exterior or cabinet feels extremely hot to the touch, or the laundry room becomes noticeably warmer than usual during operation
• Drying times have gradually increased over recent months
• A burning or musty smell is present during operation
• The dryer shuts off before the cycle completes

Care Plan

1. Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet. Pull the unit away from the wall far enough to access the exhaust port at the back.
2. Disconnect the duct hose from the exhaust port. If you are using a plastic vinyl accordion hose or a thin foil accordion hose, this is a good time to replace it — these materials trap lint and are a significant fire hazard. Replace with rigid metal duct wherever possible. Note: a short section of UL-listed flexible metal transition duct (no more than 8 feet, fully exposed and not run inside walls) is acceptable between the dryer and the wall connection, and is often necessary in tight spaces where rigid duct would kink.
3. Purchase a dryer vent brush kit ($10–$30 at most hardware stores). Insert the flexible brush rods into the duct from the dryer end and work through the full duct run, pushing lint toward the exterior cap. Also clean from the outside cap inward if accessible.
4. Vacuum out loose lint from the dryer’s exhaust port itself and from the area behind the lint trap housing inside the cabinet. Reconnect all duct sections securely.
5. Run a short test cycle with a damp towel. If drying time normalizes and the unit no longer overheats, the vent was the problem. If the dryer still fails to heat or shuts off early, proceed to Cause 2 — the thermal fuse may have blown as a result of the restricted airflow and will need to be replaced even after the vent is cleared.

Common Mistakes

• Cleaning only the section of duct immediately behind the dryer and missing the longer duct run inside the wall, which is often where the most lint accumulates.
• Reattaching plastic vinyl or thin foil accordion duct after cleaning rather than replacing it with rigid or semi-rigid metal duct, leaving the fire hazard in place.

2Blown Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse is a one-time-use safety device designed to blow — permanently interrupting the electrical circuit — if the dryer overheats. Once it blows, the dryer will either not start at all (drum does not spin, no response) or run without producing any heat (drum spins normally but clothes stay wet), depending on where the fuse is located in your specific model’s wiring circuit. Unlike a circuit breaker, a blown thermal fuse cannot be reset — it must be replaced. Importantly, a blown thermal fuse is almost always a symptom of an underlying overheating problem (usually a clogged vent) rather than the root cause itself. Always address the vent before or alongside replacing the fuse, or the new fuse will blow again.

Symptoms

• The dryer does not start at all, or starts but produces no heat, and the vent has already been confirmed clear
• No error codes are displayed on the control panel
• The dryer has a history of long drying times (indicating prior restricted airflow)

Care Plan

1. Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet and turn off the 240V breaker at the panel. Wait 60 seconds before opening the cabinet to allow any residual charge to dissipate. Note: on a gas dryer, you do not need to shut off the gas supply to replace the thermal fuse — the fuse is part of the electrical circuit, not the gas circuit. Only shut off the gas if you need to move the unit significantly and are also servicing gas components.
2. Wear work gloves before removing any panels — dryer cabinet edges and internal brackets are frequently sharp stamped metal. On many Whirlpool and Maytag top-load-lint-trap models, remove the lint trap and unscrew the two screws beneath it to release the top panel, then unclip and remove the front panel. On Samsung, LG, GE, and other models, the access method differs significantly — consult your model’s service manual or a model-specific disassembly video before applying any force to panels.
3. Locate the thermal fuse. On electric dryers, it is typically mounted on the exhaust duct inside the cabinet near the heating element housing. On gas dryers, it is usually located on or near the burner housing. It is a small, oblong component (roughly the size of a AA battery) with two wire terminals.
4. Set your multimeter to continuity mode. Disconnect the wires from both terminals and touch the probes to each terminal. A good fuse produces a beep or near-zero resistance reading. A blown fuse reads OL (meaning “open loop” — no electrical connection detected) or shows infinite resistance on the display. If the fuse is blown, purchase an exact replacement using your dryer’s model number (typically $5–$20). Connect the wires to the new fuse, reassemble the panels, and run a test cycle.
5. If the new thermal fuse blows again within a few cycles, the root cause is unresolved overheating — re-examine the vent system and check the cycling thermostat (a small disc thermostat also mounted on the duct or housing). If you are unable to identify the overheating source, call an appliance technician rather than continuing to replace fuses.

Common Mistakes

• Replacing the thermal fuse without clearing the vent or investigating the overheating cause, leading to the new fuse blowing within a short period.
• Safety Warning: Do not bypass the thermal fuse by connecting the two terminals directly with a piece of wire (sometimes called jumpering or bridging the terminals). This eliminates a critical fire-safety mechanism and creates a serious fire hazard. Even as a temporary diagnostic test, this practice is dangerous and should not be performed.

3Faulty Door Switch

The door switch is a small spring-loaded switch inside the door frame that tells the dryer’s control circuit the door is securely closed. When the door switch fails — either mechanically (the actuator pin breaks) or electrically (the internal contacts corrode or crack) — the dryer receives no signal that the door is closed and refuses to start, even if the door appears fully latched. Door switches are inexpensive and relatively straightforward to replace, making this one of the easiest repairs on this list.

Symptoms

• The dryer does not start and makes no sound when the start button is pressed, even though the door appears fully closed
• The drum light (if equipped) stays on continuously regardless of door position, suggesting the switch is not registering the door as closed
• The door latch feels physically normal but the dryer is unresponsive

Care Plan

1. Before disassembling anything, test the door switch manually: open the dryer door and press the small switch actuator button (located in the door frame opening) with your finger. You should hear a distinct click. If you hear no click, the switch mechanism is physically broken and should be replaced.
2. Unplug the dryer and turn off the 240V breaker. Wait 60 seconds before reaching inside. Wear work gloves — panel edges are sharp.
3. Access the door switch by removing the front panel or top panel per your model’s specific disassembly guide. As noted in Cause 2, the access method varies considerably by brand and model — consult your service manual or a model-specific video rather than forcing panels.
4. Disconnect the wires from the door switch terminals and test with a multimeter set to continuity mode. Important: confirm which terminal pair corresponds to the motor/run circuit on your specific model before testing — many door switches contain both normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC) terminal pairs in the same switch body, and probing the wrong pair can lead to an incorrect diagnosis. With the switch button pressed (simulating door closed), the NO terminal pair should show continuity. With the button released, it should not. A switch that fails either condition should be replaced. Purchase an exact replacement using your model number ($10–$35).
5. Install the new switch, reconnect the wires, reassemble the panels, and run a test cycle. If the dryer still fails to start after a confirmed good door switch, the fault likely lies elsewhere in the circuit — specifically the start switch, timer, or control board — and further diagnosis by an appliance technician is recommended.

Common Mistakes

• Testing the door switch without confirming which terminal pair controls the motor circuit, leading to a false “failed” diagnosis and an unnecessary parts purchase.
• Reassembling the front panel without fully seating the door switch actuator in its bracket, causing the new switch to fail to register door closure even though it is electrically functional.

4Failed Heating Element

The heating element is the resistive coil inside an electric dryer that generates heat. Over time — typically after years of normal use — the coil can develop a break, causing an open circuit that prevents it from generating any heat at all. This repair involves more disassembly than the previous causes and takes 1–2 hours depending on your model, but it is within the range of a careful DIYer with basic tools. Note: this cause applies only to electric dryers. If you have a gas dryer and it isn’t heating, the issue is likely a failed igniter or gas valve coils, which require a different diagnostic process.

Symptoms

• The dryer tumbles and runs for the full duration of the timer, but the air and clothes remain completely cold.
• The 240V circuit breaker is on, and the dryer has power, but there is zero warmth.
• A visual inspection reveals a break or a charred spot in the heating element coils.

Care Plan

1. Safety First: Unplug the dryer and turn off the 240V breaker. Verify the power is off before removing any panels.
2. Access the Element: Depending on your model, the heating element is usually housed in a metal chamber behind the rear panel or accessible from the front bottom. Consult your service manual for the exact path.
3. Test for Continuity: Set your multimeter to the lowest Ohm (Ω) setting. Disconnect the wires from the heating element terminals (photograph them first). Touch one probe to each terminal. A functional element should read between 15 and 50 ohms. If the meter reads “OL” (Open Loop) or shows no change, the internal coil is broken.
4. Inspect for Grounding: Touch one probe to a terminal and the other to the metal heater housing. If you see continuity, the element is “shorted to ground,” which is a fire hazard and requires immediate replacement.
5. Replace the Part: Unscrew the heater assembly and slide it out. Install an exact OEM replacement ($20–$120). Reconnect the wires, ensuring the spade connectors are tight and free of corrosion. Reassemble and test.

Common Mistakes

• Replacing the element when only one “leg” of the breaker is tripped. Electric dryers use a double-pole breaker. If one half trips, the motor (120V) will spin the drum, but the heater (240V) won’t get power. Always flip the breaker all the way OFF and back ON before buying a new element.
• Touching the coils with bare hands. Skin oils can create “hot spots” on the element that lead to premature failure. Use clean gloves or handle the element only by its metal frame.