An oven not heating up is one of the most disruptive appliance failures in any kitchen, and in 2026 the repair is often simpler than you might expect. Some fixes take under 30 minutes with a screwdriver and a multimeter — others require a professional. This guide ranks the four most common causes from most to least likely so you can diagnose the problem efficiently.
4 Common Causes for an Oven Not Heating Up
1Failed Bake Element or Gas Igniter
The bake element (electric ovens) and the hot-surface igniter (gas ovens) are the workhorses of the heating system and statistically the most common reason an oven stops heating. Electric bake elements fail when the resistive wire inside burns through, often visibly. Gas igniters degrade over time — the igniter must reach a sufficient temperature to pull the gas valve open, and a weakening igniter draws less current than required, leaving the valve closed even while the igniter glows.
Symptoms
- Electric oven produces no heat at all, or heats very unevenly; you may see a visible break, blister, or burn spot on the element.
- Gas oven igniter glows orange but the burner does not light within the manufacturer’s specified ignition time (many manufacturers specify ignition within 30–90 seconds — consult your model’s service documentation for the exact threshold for your range).
Care Plan
- Disconnect power at the double-pole circuit breaker. For gas ovens, also shut off the gas supply valve behind or beneath the range. Confirm the oven is fully cool before proceeding. Put on work gloves.
- Locate the component. For electric ovens, the bake element is at the bottom of the oven cavity, secured by two screws at the rear wall. For gas ovens, the igniter is located near the burner tube beneath the oven floor panel — note that on some models the igniter is accessed from the broiler drawer below the oven cavity rather than from inside; consult your model’s service diagram if you cannot find it.
- Test with a multimeter. Pull the element or igniter forward far enough to expose the two terminal wires. Disconnect them and set your multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting.
- Electric bake element: Touch one probe to each terminal. A functioning element will show a resistance value — the exact expected reading varies by element wattage and model, so look up the specification in your model’s service manual. The definitive failure indicator regardless of model is an open circuit (OL / infinite resistance), which confirms the element has burned through. As a general reference, a 2,000W element on a 240V circuit calculates to approximately 29 ohms, while a 1,200W element calculates closer to 48 ohms.
- Gas igniter: Touch one probe to each terminal. A functioning hot-surface igniter typically reads approximately 50–200 ohms depending on type and model — consult your service manual for the specific expected range. An open circuit (OL / infinite resistance) confirms the igniter has failed. You can also measure current draw with a clamp meter when the igniter is energized; a functioning igniter typically draws 2.5–3.5 amps.
- Replace the failed component. Order the OEM-spec replacement part — a replacement made by or to the specifications of your oven’s manufacturer — using your full model number (found on the label inside the oven door frame). Disconnect the terminal wires, remove the mounting screws, install the new part, and reconnect the wires securely.
- For gas ovens — check for leaks before operating. After reassembly, restore the gas supply first. Apply a commercial gas leak detector solution or soapy water to every connection you disturbed. If bubbles appear, or if you smell gas, shut off the gas supply immediately and do not operate the oven until a licensed technician has inspected the connections. If no leaks are detected, restore power and run a test bake cycle to confirm the repair.
Common Mistakes
- Ordering a universal element instead of an OEM-spec part. Universal elements are often cut to approximate dimensions and may not fit the terminal spacing on your oven, creating a loose or arcing connection. Always order by model number.
- Skipping the multimeter test and replacing by appearance alone. A lightly discolored element may still test in-spec, while an element with no visible damage can show an open circuit. Always confirm with a meter before purchasing a part.
2Faulty Oven Temperature Sensor
The temperature sensor — also called the oven probe or resistance temperature detector (a sensor whose electrical resistance changes predictably with temperature) — is a thin probe that extends into the oven cavity from the upper rear wall. The oven’s control board reads its resistance to determine cavity temperature and modulate the heating element accordingly. A failed or out-of-calibration sensor causes the control board to misread the oven’s temperature, resulting in no heat, insufficient heat, or wildly inaccurate temperatures.
Symptoms
- Oven displays an error code (common codes include F3, F4, or equivalent — consult your model’s manual for the specific meaning).
- Oven runs but baked food is consistently undercooked or overcooked; the displayed temperature does not match an independent oven thermometer reading.
Care Plan
- Disconnect power at the double-pole circuit breaker and allow the oven to cool completely. Put on work gloves.
- Locate the temperature sensor. It is typically mounted to the upper rear wall of the oven cavity with one or two screws and a wiring connector accessible from inside.
- Test with a multimeter. Disconnect the sensor’s wiring connector and set your multimeter to resistance (Ω). At room temperature (approximately 70°F / 21°C), many common RTD-type oven sensors read roughly 1,080–1,100 ohms — however, exact values vary by manufacturer and model. Consult your model’s service manual to confirm the expected reading before condemning the sensor. A reading far outside the expected range, or an open circuit (OL / infinite resistance), confirms the sensor has failed.
- Replace the sensor. Remove the mounting screws and pull the sensor out of the cavity. Feed the new OEM-spec sensor through the same opening, secure the screws, and reconnect the wiring connector.
- Restore power and run a calibration check. Set the oven to 350°F and place an independent oven thermometer inside. After 20 minutes, compare the displayed temperature to the thermometer reading. A discrepancy of more than ±25°F after a verified sensor replacement may indicate a control board calibration issue — contact a licensed appliance technician for further diagnosis.
Common Mistakes
- Replacing the sensor without testing it first. An F3/F4 error code can also be triggered by a wiring harness break between the sensor and the control board. Test the sensor resistance at the wiring connector before ordering a part.
- Failing to route the replacement sensor wire away from the oven’s heating elements. The sensor wire must follow the original routing path to avoid contact with hot surfaces, which can melt the insulation and create a short.
3Blown Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is a one-time-use safety device wired into the oven’s power circuit that permanently opens (blows) if the oven’s internal temperature exceeds a safe threshold. Unlike a circuit breaker, it does not reset — once blown, it must be replaced. Thermal fuses fail most often after a self-cleaning cycle, which deliberately runs the oven at extreme temperatures (800–1,000°F), or after a ventilation blockage causes excessive heat buildup.
Symptoms
- Oven is completely dead — no heat, no display, no response — after a self-cleaning cycle or a period of heavy use.
- Circuit breaker has not tripped, and the outlet or terminal block is confirmed to be supplying power.
Care Plan
- Disconnect power at the double-pole circuit breaker. Confirm the oven is fully cool. Put on work gloves.
- Access the thermal fuse. On most models, the fuse is located on the back panel of the oven (accessed by pulling the range away from the wall and removing the rear service panel) or near the control board housing. Consult your model’s service diagram to locate it precisely.
- Test with a multimeter. Set your multimeter to continuity mode (or resistance / Ω). Touch one probe to each terminal of the fuse. A functioning fuse shows continuity (a beep in continuity mode, or near-zero resistance). A blown fuse shows an open circuit (OL / infinite resistance), confirming it has failed.
- Investigate the root cause before replacing. A thermal fuse that blew once can blow again immediately if the underlying cause of overheating is not resolved. Check that all oven vents are clear of debris and that the cooling fan (if your model has one) operates correctly. To check the fan: after confirming the repair and restoring power for a brief test only, set the oven to a bake cycle at 350°F and listen at the rear vent for audible fan operation. If no fan sound is present on a model that has a cooling fan (confirm in your service manual), shut the oven off and call a licensed technician to inspect the fan motor before operating the oven further.
- Replace the thermal fuse. Disconnect the wire terminals, remove the fuse, and install the exact OEM-spec replacement (match the temperature rating printed on the original fuse). Restore power and test. If the new fuse blows again during normal operation, contact a licensed appliance technician — do not continue to replace fuses without resolving the root cause.
Common Mistakes
- Bypassing the fuse. Never “jump” or bypass a thermal fuse with a wire. This fuse is a critical safety device designed to prevent a house fire; if it blew, it did so to protect your home from an overheating event.
- Ignoring the cooling fan. If your oven has a cooling fan (common in wall ovens and slide-in ranges), a failed fan is the #1 reason thermal fuses blow. If you don’t hear a whirring sound during the bake cycle, the new fuse will likely blow within the first hour of use.
4Control Board Failure
The electronic control board (ERC) is the “brain” of the oven. it uses relays to send 240V power to the bake and broil elements. Over time, these relays can burn out, or the solder joints on the board can crack due to the extreme heat cycles of the oven. If the bake element, sensor, and fuse all test fine, the control board is likely failing to send voltage to the heating circuit.
Symptoms
- The oven display works and you can set a temperature, but you never hear the “click” of the relay engaging the heating element.
- Visible burn marks, melted plastic, or “scorched” smell near the control panel area.
- The oven intermittently fails to heat or shuts off unexpectedly mid-cycle.
Care Plan
- Disconnect power at the breaker. This is a high-voltage repair. Confirm the unit is de-energized with a non-contact voltage tester before touching any internal wiring.
- Access the board. Remove the upper back panel or the front control glass (depending on your model) to expose the rear of the control board.
- Visual Inspection. Look for “cold” solder joints (cracked, dull gray rings) or black soot marks around the larger black cubes (relays) on the board. If you see physical damage, the board must be replaced.
- Voltage Test (Pro Only). To definitively prove a board failure, a technician would test for 240V output at the board’s “Bake” terminal while the oven is on. Do not attempt to test live voltage yourself; a slip of a probe can cause a massive electrical arc or permanent injury.
- Replace the Board. Photograph the wiring connections—this is vital, as there may be a dozen identical-looking wires. Unplug the connectors, unscrew the old board, and install the new OEM-spec unit. In 2026, many boards require “programming” or a specific “jumper” configuration found in the included instructions.
Common Mistakes
- Misdiagnosing a blown fuse as a bad board. Because a blown thermal fuse can sometimes kill the display, homeowners often spend $300 on a board when a $15 fuse was the real problem. Always test the fuse (Cause 3) first.
- Mixing up the wires. Control board wiring is complex. If you don’t have a clear photo to reference, a single misplaced wire can short out the new board or even the oven’s heating elements.
